The best pizza in Florence

His name is Vincenzo.
If you meet him and eat his pizza, you'll never forget him.

The place is called "Caffè Italiano", and it's just steps away from Piazza della Signoria, in a tiny street called Via delle Stinche:

What you'll see is a beautiful restaurant (great for special occasions!) but if you pay attention you'll notice that one of the doors (the third in this photo) actually lets you in a small pizza place with a beautiful wood-burning oven and a smiling man behind it - that's the famous Pizzeria del Caffè Italiano, and he is famous Vincenzo!

Look how beautiful the restaurant is!

...and this is Vincenzo's famous bancone where he mixes just a few, fresh and high quality ingredients to make his delicious pizza

He only uses flower, water, fresh tomatoes, basil, and of course high quality olive oil.

You can choose between three types of pizza, all of which have the tomato sauce base:
-Marinara: with tomato and garlic
-Margherita: with mozzarella and basil
-Napoletana: with mozzarella, anchovies and capers (very tasty!)

You might wonder: why only three?
Well, because that's how real pizza is! - Vincenzo explained to me. In Naples, where he comes from and where pizza was invented, the best pizza is the most simple: marinara. And that's what he prepares for his clients: excellence and simplicity - a perfect combination.

...and here it is:

I can smell the perfume just looking at the photo...yum!

Enjoy!

Autumn: ecological shopping?

Autumn has come!
How delightful to come back to Florence from a weekend at the beach and discover that the city climate isn't that bad after all...!
Over the past weeks I have suffered the poor air quality, feeling quite frustrated at the thought that I live in the pedestrian area where, in theory, cars shouldn't circulate. I say in theory because taxis are exempt from this rule, and scooters seem to simply ignore it.


Last Spring the new young Florentine Mayor, Matteo Renzi, introduced significant changes in car circulation by closing to traffic two important streets, Via Tornabuoni (the famous luxury-shopping district) and Via Guicciardini (that runs from Ponte Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti). 

He made this difficult choice a year after deciding to close to traffic the whole area around beautiful Duomo - which gave rise to months and months of polemics. 

One the reasons behind these choices is to reduce air pollution. Florence is in a valley, sorrounded by hills, and air is oftentimes stagnant. On lovely autumn days like today fresh breezes sweep away the pollution, but this of course isn't sufficient to guarantee decent air quality in such a densely populated environment - hence the traffic changes. 

The so-called pedonalizzazione wasn't welcomed by everyone with a smile. 
Many shopkeepers expressed frustration out of the belief that their clients wouldn't shop in their stores unless they could drive right by them. This is clearly not the case: car-free streets are, in fact, even more likely to become shopping districts precisely because they are safer and nicer to walk through. One example for all: Borgo la Croce (the pedestrian street that runs from Sant'Ambrogio to Piazza Beccaria) is always packed with shoppers, especially on Saturday and Sunday afternoons, when Italians enjoy the classic weekend pastime: passeggiata.


I must say that local shopkeepers seem to display unreasonable behaviour, and their hostility towards pedestrian areas is only one of the possible examples.
One of the strangest and most unreasonable behaviours I have witnessed is the following: in Summer shops will have the air conditioning full-blast but all the doors wide open. In winter, same thing: hot air at full regimen, but doors open to the elements.


Last winter Florence had an unprecedented snowstorm: the whole city stopped in its tracks because of how much snow fell in just a few hours. And the shopkeepers? Doors wide open, heat full blast, snow blowing in.
I was walking around when I got caught in the snowstorm and took refuge in a popular bag and accessories store called Segue. I walked in and shut the door behind me. The young employee rushed up to me and scolded me: "You can't close the door!". 
I was shocked and pointed out: "It's snowing inside!", to which I received the same answer: "You simply can't close it!!". 
I was so outraged that I went back out in the storm - to be inside and get snowed on, may as well be out in the street, don't you think?



In the years, talking with many many shopkeepers, I learned that they believe that if they don't keep their doors open clients will not step in. And they appear unwilling to revisit their position and recognize that it's based on false beliefs - people are generally accustomed to opening doors in order to get inside shop, and they generally don't associate a closed door with an unwelcoming shopkeeper, or with the obligation to purchase something if they enter the store). 


Moreover, most shopkeepers appear unwilling to reflect on the fact that their behaviour determines an outrageous energetic consumption that nullifies the eventual benefit of a few extra clients. Again, they are unwilling to see that their behaviour is counter-beneficial because in the winter clients freeze in the front side of the store which is open to the elements and roast to death in the over-heated back; while in the summer customers freeze in the super-cold shops, only to suffocate when they walk on the sidewalk outside because of the excessive exhaust produced by the over-running air-conditioning. Finally, shopkeepers are unwilling to see how short-sighted their behaviour is, given that this ludicrous energy expenditure is polluting the environment in horrific ways and is depleting resources.


Ironically, shopkeepers make life miserable for the shoppers that they struggle to attract. Sadly, most pedestrians blame solely the harsh Florentine climate for its blasting hot summer days, without recognizing that the city itself produces way more heat than it would if shop-owners made reasonable and sensible choices.


I think that we should all contribute to making Florence a better place to visit and to live in. We can make such a difference in life-quality by making small, every day choices!
I've been asking shop-owners to close their doors, and I have also considered doing more serious research, and presenting shops with some nice hard-data that demonstrates how consumer behaviour is different from what they imagine. And mostly: if all shops in Florence kept their doors closed, it would become the norm, and nobody would ever think that it has any meaning - apart from: "I'm a sensible person"!!!


You can make a difference too, even if you spend just a few days, or even hours, in this beautiful city - and if you do make the choice to contribute to the quality of life in Florence, do write to me and tell your story! I would love to share it on this blog.

For you readers of this blog (thank you!)

I am very excited to see the public to my blog grow every day! I love having the possibility to share information, thoughts and ideas with people from different parts of the world: Italy, Germany, the US, Russia...
I would love to receive comments from all these readers; it's nice to write, even nicer to receive feedback.
Who are you guys reading this blog? What drew you to it? Are you thinking about visiting this beautiful city?
Do you perhaps already live here, and enjoy reading a different point of view?
In any case, thank you everyone for taking your time to read what I carefully write many days of the week. It makes a difference for me.

Ceramics in Florence: some reflections on crafts and art

Yesterday I visited the Fiera Internazionale della Ceramica (international ceramics exhibition) in Piazza Santissima Annunziata in Florence. It was absolutely amazing, and I plan on going back today to shoot photos and write a full reportage on the event to post on this blog.

Ceramic vase by Paolo Staccioli

I met a variety of artists and had in-depth conversations with a few of them. We discussed the creative process, from inspiration to realization, and address the difficult topic of pricing: how can one price an object that is completely made by hand, and do so by acknowledging both the artists' effort and potential customers' price expectations?

Ceramic vase by Paolo Staccioli

I thought that their price range (5€ for a small coffee cup, up to 800-1000 for a very big decorated vase, but most around 50€) was absolutely fair for the quality of items sold. In fact, I could almost say that I felt that prices could even be a little higher - but would people buy them in that case?

Ceramic vase by Paolo Staccioli

Moreover: how does context affect pricing? If the same objects were in an art gallery, how would their price vary?

The works by Tuscan ceramicist Paolo Staccioli offer some insight. He creates ceramic vases and sculptures, all beautifully decorated and so colourful and bright that an exhibition of his was entitled "Le gioiose ceramiche di Paolo Staccioli" - the joyful ceramics of Paolo Staccioli. And indeed joyful they are! Just looking at his whimsical characters one feels better about life! Men and women either blissful or lost in deep reflection remind us of the poetry and depth of human existence.

Ceramic and metal sculpture by Paolo Staccioli

His vases often feature versions of classical themes, especially horses, their powerful bodies chasing one another on the shiny curved surface.

Ceramic vase by Paolo Staccioli

The exhibition I mentioned was held in 2005-2006 in Palazzo Pitti, and it was groundbreaking not only because one of the most important Florentine museums hosted a form of art considered minor in Italy, but also because it was one of the first times that it showcased works by a living artist!

Ceramic sculpture by Paolo Staccioli

This exhibition raises various important questions, and in particular: what is the difference between Staccioli's work regularly featured in galleries and the work I saw yesterday? And do they justify the extraordinary price difference? Is it a matter of categories, so that Staccioli's work should be considered art, while the other is craft? These questions are intertwined with the issue of pricing.

Ceramic vase by Paolo Staccioli

Being an artist myself, I tend to think that art is characterized by masterful technique combined with valid concept. To have a piece of art you need both: breathtaking technique, but also an idea behind it.
Craft doesn't necessarily involve concept: it is usually beautiful work, but it is mainly driven by technique (and I'm only talking about high quality crafts, of course).

Is this what makes the difference in price? The idea? Or is it location - the fact that a piece of "art" is sold in an art gallery (which automatically gives the object a high status) while craft can be sold in simple locations such as the open air market I visited yesterday?
At the same time, various items I saw yesterday had the qualities I would attribute to a true work of art, so why were they shown in this small fair? Did the craftsman/woman not acknowledge for themselves the identity of artist?

I don't have a clear answer (yet!). But I do know that I fell in love with many objects I saw yesterday, and I am grateful that I can actually afford some of them - while I cannot afford a piece by Staccioli.

At the same time, as I purchased my "Eve" vase from a young Florentine female ceramicist, and I admired its beautiful female form reminiscent of the primitive Venuses I so much love, I felt I should have paid more for it.

Getting lost in Florence - the best thing that ever happened to you

Imagine walking across the Arno river and getting lost in a maze of little streets. You walk uncertain of your bearings, and make the wisest choice: ignore your map, go with the flow!

It's a Saturday morning, the city is slowly waking up, and you are the only person around.
You wander taking in the odor of fresh pastries and the unexpected sight of empty neighborhoods.
You delight in your solitude: you feel free.

You decide it's time for a cappuccino. You are in a small, quaint piazza sorrounded by restaurants with outside tables and enclosed by low buildings: it's called Piazza della Passera.

Just by chance, you see the perfect place for breakfast right there in front of you. It's called Caffè degli Artigiani, the artisans' cafè.

(By the way: did you notice the strange street sign on the right? Why is a little black man carrying the "wrong way" bar? If you pay attention you'll notice all around Florence street signs have been transformed in works of art, and the author of this beautiful urban exhibition is Clet, French artist who has been living in Italy for two decades. I'll dedicate a whole post to him, because he really deserves it. His at once whimsical and thought provoking installations have made the whole city reflect on the importance of contemporary art that can speak to people today, highlighting the need to support art for present times, not just preserve the old masterpieces).

But getting back to your breakfast! You enter the café, and discover that it is not only beautiful and welcoming, but also filled with great looking things to eat!

As you look around, you notice that the walls are covered by an interesting collage of hundreds and hundreds of faces: they are customers and people from the neighborhood, all happily posing for this unusual take on wallpaper.

You can order directly at the counter if you wish to eat sitting on the tall stools by the collage. You can also decide you deserve a special morning, and treat yourself to sipping your hot coffee sitting at one of the tables outside (in this case the barista will bring you breakfast when it's ready: go out and pick a seat!).
And by the way, if you are in Florence in Spring, while sitting outside with your back to the café turn your head to the left and look up the wall just a few meters down: it is covered by incredible blossoming wisteria. And if its sight takes your breath away, wait 'til you notice the perfume!!!

You can sit for as long as you wish: this is one of the most beautiful places to take your time and read, write your journal, or just people-watch.

When you're ready to get up (you can always come back!!) walk around the corner to Via de' Ramaglianti (this  is your two minute route) and another surprise awaits you: leather artisan workshop Monaco Metropolitano.

This is HEAVEN for those of us who appreciate unique, one-of-a-kind bags and accessories made completely by hand. And when I say completely by hand I mean it! They don't even use a sewing machine: they purchase gorgeous pieces of leather in the neighboring town of Santa Croce sull'Arno (world-famous for its leather production), cut it, make small holes in it with an appropriate tool, and then double-stitch it by passing special waxed thread through the holes.

Walking in all your senses will be aroused: your eyes will enjoy the soft colours of the decor and delicate lighting, your nose will be inebriated by the strong but pleasant odour of leather, and if you touch any of their products your fingers will tell you that  it is an amazing experience to hold one of their bags even just for a moment - imagine for a lifetime!

They create leather bags, wallets, and recently even custom shoes - all with an eye towards tradition (high quality materials and techniques guarantee a virtually eternal life-span) while maintaining a strong sensibility to contemporary life. Their designs are compelling, interesting, and also well-made - can't get better than that!

So, next time you walk around Florence, decide to get lost!
It will be the beginning of an unforgettable day.

(and in case you're curious of where exactly these awesome places are, check how easy it is to find them: )

Folon in the Rose Garden - contemporary art exhibition opening tonight in Florence

Florence has a thriving contemporary art scene. Most days of the week, most weeks of the year, one can find an incredible variety of openings.
Most private galleries are located throughout the city center in beautiful historic buildings, and their fantastic contemporary interior design combines beautifully with the ancient stone pavements and wooden beam ceilings.
But art isn't only located inside: Florence will make your head spin with sculptures situated all over the city, and today one of its most special places, the rose garden in San Niccolò, will host the opening of an incredible exhibition: Folon's whimsical sculptures.
The rose garden, Giardino delle Rose, is located right outside the city walls close to Piazzale Michelangelo. It is one of the most beautiful places in the city, from which you can enjoy an amazing view of all the main monuments and buildings.

It was created in 1865 by the same architect that designed the famous Piazzale, Giuseppe Poggi; he was assigned this job to make Florence even more magnificent, given that the capital of the newly created Italian state was about to be moved from Turin to Florence itself.

This small urban paradise is the perfect location for a lovely day relaxing in the green; virtually unknown to tourists, it offers beautiful slopes of soft green grass on which one can lie down and read a book.

Hundreds of rose bushes and other plants offers shade and privacy. And don't miss the beautiful terrace!

In 1998 a Japanese architect donated a Japanese garden, which is now connected to the rose garden by a small passage.

At 5:30 tonight this incredible location will be made even more beautiful by a number of works of art donated by late Folon's wife, Paola Ghiringhelli.

Imagine looking at Florence through Folon's memorable suitcase, Partir (to leave): what a beautiful omen to all our future travels!

Once again: enjoy!

Gelato in Florence - a bittersweet taste?

It's not easy to find quality food in Florence. Sad truth.
A lot of what the city offers, especially in the historic center, is very standardized, low-quality food. What makes it even worse, is that it is very expensive. At times, prohibitively expensive.

Last Spring many local newspapers covered stories that described the world of gelato. Not just any gelato, but the gelato that you'll find if you are craving the sweet delicacy while strolling the streets in the neighborhood of Ponte Vecchio, the famous old bridge that connects the Duomo area with Oltrarno, "the other side" - what the locals collectively call the quarters of Santo Spirito, San Niccolò and San Frediano. And of course, if you're a tourist in Florence, you will walk in that neighborhood (not to mention: if you do so in a hot summer day, you definitely will want gelato). These articles stirred quite a debate, because journalists listed prices as high as 12 euro and more for a cone or cup of the fresh creaminess.

Locals pointed out that shops go way too far in taking advantage of the tourists' presence; moreover, they noted, such behaviour makes it almost impossible for a Florentine to enjoy some dessert. Indeed, what you're willing to pay on your romantic Italian escapade is way higher than what you'll be ok in dishing out for the same food at home - am I right? So why should it be any different for the people who live in Florence all year? Indeed it shouldn't.

This small case raises a plethora of considerations.
First of all, gelato isn't the only thing that has ridiculous prices in the city center, causing locals to seriously struggle to make ends meet. Everything from fruit to rents can go anywhere from a little more to twice, three and even four times higher than average prices in Tuscany as a whole. This has huge consequences for the locals, who end up not being able to afford to buy food, let alone pay the rent.
Landlords find it much more convenient to rent apartments for a few days at exorbitant prices to foreigners pining for the Tuscan landscapes, and that is exactly what they are doing. Buildings are filled with people that spend short amounts of time in the city and are willing to pay what it takes to give them the experience they want. And they're ok paying a lot for where they sleep, for what they eat and drink, for the gifts they bring back home, for the Italian clothes, the rental car, the amusements, the museums...

Now, if you reread this list, you'll see that it covers pretty much everything that one needs in life - leaving locals with only a few options: either suck it up and lower their lifestyle, or move. And again here we have it: people that decide to leave their lifetime neighborhoods and move outside the city center, where they simply cannot afford to live anymore. So to leave isn't only the choice of men like Lorenzo (see this post of mine) who don't like the social, cultural, and life-style turn that Florence has taken; it's also the choice of many average families that have average jobs and average stipends.

Those of us who do decide to stay in the old center have to be very creative with how we get by: we work double jobs, but we also constantly look for good-quality and well-priced places where to buy food and have fun.
It's not easy, I'll tell you! But those places are there. And I'll share one of my favourite: gelato parlor "Perchè No" (THIS) in Via dei Tavolini 19 (HERE), right between the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria.

The clue to what makes it special is in the image right above: it is "gelato artigianale", which means artisanal icecream.
We should all be picky when we decide to eat or shop in a place that describes itself as artisanal. Many use this word to attract attention, but without really having the required qualities.
Now, there are purists and less-strict people who give different definitions of this term, but generally we should say that for a product to be artisanal it has to be made entirely by hand, and by the person who sells it. Moreover, it is generally assumed that the ingredients or materials should be of high quality, and local.

So, what does it take to make artisanal gelato?

• First of all: it should ONLY be made with actual ingredients, no weird powders. And indeed Perchè No uses only fruit, milk, cream, sugar, water, chocolate, eggs, spices. That's right.
• Second: ingredients must be in season. You just can't make good strawberry icecream in the winter. Simply because fresh strawberries don't grow in the winter. And you can't make orange gelato in the summer: oranges are a winter fruit. If you get strawberry icecream in July, know that it came out of a box or a freezer! At Perchè No the menu changes seasonally. In fact, it actually changes daily! Literally! Every day of the week they have different flavours.
• Third: gelato must be made fresh every day, by hand.

And guess what? This gelateria is located right in the heart of the historic center!
I hope they stay open...and don't raise their prices. For now, amazing but true, their exquisite delicacies are actually affordable!!!

Enjoy!